cliffs of Prince Leopold Island in Nunavut

Prince Leopold Island: Paddling Beneath a City of Seabirds

Discover Prince Leopold Island in Nunavut, where hundreds of thousands of murres, fulmars, kittiwakes and guillemots breed on spectacular High Arctic cliffs.

Bowhead whale surfacing in Isabella Bay on Baffin Island

Isabella Bay: In the Realm of the Bowhead Whale

Isabella Bay: In the Realm of the Bowhead Whale

We never entered Isabella Bay. Instead, our expedition ship cruised past the entrance, looking into a huge sweep of Arctic coastline on the northeastern side of Baffin Island. There was no sea kayaking here and no close approach into the bay itself, and there was a very good reason for that.

Ancient Thule Inuit winter house remains beneath Caswall Tower at Radstock Bay on Devon Island

Radstock Bay: Paddling Through a Thousand Years of Arctic History

Explore Radstock Bay on Devon Island, home to remarkable Thule Inuit winter houses built from stone, turf and whale bone beneath spectacular Caswall Tower.

Sun above Arctic mountains at Duart Bay on Baffin Island, Nunavut

Duart Bay: Sea Kayaking into a Scottish Corner of Baffin Island

Duart Bay: Sea Kayaking into a Scottish Corner of Baffin Island. There are famous places in the Canadian Arctic – names such as Beechey Island, Lancaster Sound and Pond Inlet that appear repeatedly in books about exploration, wildlife and the search for the Northwest Passage. And then there are places that barely appear on a conventional map. Duart Bay, tucked away in Dexterity Fiord on the spectacular eastern coast of Baffin Island, is one of them.

Dundas Harbour, Devon Island RCMP Huts

Dundas Harbour: Ghosts in the Fog on Devon Island

Dundas Harbour: Ghosts in the Fog on Devon Island. Under different circumstances it would have been ideal weather for getting ashore, launching the Zodiacs and exploring one of the most fascinating historic sites in the Canadian High Arctic. There was, however, one rather significant problem. Fog.

Sea kayakers beneath the glacier at Croker Bay on Devon Island in Nunavut

Croker Bay: Paddling Beneath the Glaciers of Devon Island

Croker Bay: Paddling Beneath the Glaciers of Devon Island

There are few things that make you feel smaller in a sea kayak than a glacier. Mountains can be enormous. Icebergs can dwarf you. Whales can surface alongside your kayak and make a five-metre boat suddenly seem ridiculously insignificant. But a glacier is different. A glacier is a landscape that moves.