greenland-qajaq-history-sea-kayaking

Greenland’s Qajaq: The Arctic Hunting Craft That Shaped Sea Kayaking Worldwide

Standing in the Greenland National Museum in Nuuk recently, looking at the old qajaqs displayed there, brought home just how extraordinary these craft really are. To a modern sea kayaker they are immediately recognisable as ancestors of our own boats, yet they were created for a purpose far removed from recreational paddling. The Greenland qajaq was not primarily designed to get someone from A to B. It was a highly sophisticated piece of survival technology.

Colourful houses and mountains in Sisimiut on Greenland’s west coast

Sisimiut: Where Modern Greenland Meets the Mountains

After travelling through remote fjords, past glaciers and icebergs, and visiting some tiny communities along the Greenlandic coast, arriving in Sisimiut feels surprisingly urban. This is Greenland’s second-largest town, with around 5,500 inhabitants, yet it still sits in a landscape that would be considered wilderness almost anywhere else. Mountains rise directly behind the houses, the …

cliffs of Prince Leopold Island in Nunavut

Prince Leopold Island: Paddling Beneath a City of Seabirds

Discover Prince Leopold Island in Nunavut, where hundreds of thousands of murres, fulmars, kittiwakes and guillemots breed on spectacular High Arctic cliffs.

Bowhead whale surfacing in Isabella Bay on Baffin Island

Isabella Bay: In the Realm of the Bowhead Whale

Isabella Bay: In the Realm of the Bowhead Whale

We never entered Isabella Bay. Instead, our expedition ship cruised past the entrance, looking into a huge sweep of Arctic coastline on the northeastern side of Baffin Island. There was no sea kayaking here and no close approach into the bay itself, and there was a very good reason for that.

Ancient Thule Inuit winter house remains beneath Caswall Tower at Radstock Bay on Devon Island

Radstock Bay: Paddling Through a Thousand Years of Arctic History

Explore Radstock Bay on Devon Island, home to remarkable Thule Inuit winter houses built from stone, turf and whale bone beneath spectacular Caswall Tower.

Sun above Arctic mountains at Duart Bay on Baffin Island, Nunavut

Duart Bay: Sea Kayaking into a Scottish Corner of Baffin Island

Duart Bay: Sea Kayaking into a Scottish Corner of Baffin Island. There are famous places in the Canadian Arctic – names such as Beechey Island, Lancaster Sound and Pond Inlet that appear repeatedly in books about exploration, wildlife and the search for the Northwest Passage. And then there are places that barely appear on a conventional map. Duart Bay, tucked away in Dexterity Fiord on the spectacular eastern coast of Baffin Island, is one of them.

Paddling Maniitsoq and Sermillinguaq Fjord: From Scotland to the Ice

Paddling Maniitsoq and Sermillinguaq Fjord: From Scotland to the Ice

There are moments when travelling when a landscape on the other side of the world suddenly feels strangely familiar. Our first paddle near Maniitsoq in West Greenland was one of those moments. We had come to Greenland expecting huge fjords, glaciers, icebergs and unmistakably Arctic landscapes. Instead, as we paddled beneath steep rocky mountains rising from the sea, I kept thinking that I had seen this place before. It looked like Torridon.

Dundas Harbour, Devon Island RCMP Huts

Dundas Harbour: Ghosts in the Fog on Devon Island

Dundas Harbour: Ghosts in the Fog on Devon Island. Under different circumstances it would have been ideal weather for getting ashore, launching the Zodiacs and exploring one of the most fascinating historic sites in the Canadian High Arctic. There was, however, one rather significant problem. Fog.