Perched on the edge of the English Channel just eight miles from the coast of France, Alderney may be small—just 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide—but it is packed with history, wildlife, and stunning landscapes. Whether you’re a walker, birder, or history enthusiast, this Channel Island gem offers far more than its size suggests. In this blog we describe three great Walks on Alderney.
A Fortified Outpost: Alderney’s Strategic Past
In the mid-19th century, Britain viewed Alderney as a lynchpin in the defence of its naval dominance in the Channel. With France expanding its harbour at Cherbourg just across the water, the British government responded by turning Alderney into a heavily fortified garrison island.
Between the 1840s and 1860s, an extraordinary programme of Victorian military engineering saw the construction of 18 forts and batteries, plus the enormous Alderney harbour breakwater—one of the most ambitious civil engineering projects of the time. Forts like Tourgis, Clonque, and Albert formed a defensive ring around the island, and the newly built railway helped transport stone from inland quarries to the breakwater site. Queen Victoria herself visited the island three times, underlining its importance to British strategy.
During WWII, the island’s strategic role took a darker turn. In June 1940, Alderney’s entire civilian population was evacuated just before German forces arrived. The island was then turned into a heavily militarised outpost of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall. Four Nazi labour camps were established, and much of the existing Victorian infrastructure was adapted or expanded for German use. Fortifications, bunkers, and anti-tank walls still scar the landscape, particularly around Longis and Platte Saline. The remains of Organisation Todt camps, where forced labourers suffered harsh conditions, are a sobering reminder of this chapter of Alderney’s past.
Tidal Currents: Nature’s Power Play
Alderney’s position at the mouth of the Channel means it experiences some of the most powerful tidal races in Europe. The infamous Swinge and Race of Alderney—on the island’s north-west and south-east sides, respectively—create fierce tidal streams as waters funnel between Alderney and the Normandy coast.
The tidal difference here can exceed 6 metres, with currents reaching speeds of 10 knots or more. These surging waters bring nutrient-rich seas, supporting the teeming marine life that feeds seabird colonies like the gannets of Les Etacs. The tides also create unique conditions for kayakers and sailors—demanding respect, experience, and local knowledge.
Alderney’s Rich Wildlife
Alderney’s isolated position and varied habitats make it a hotspot for wildlife. The towering sea cliffs to the west are home to over 2,000 pairs of northern gannets, making Les Etacs and Ortac some of the most important gannet breeding sites in the British Isles. These spectacular birds can be seen plunging like arrows into the sea, a marvel for birdwatchers and photographers.
Along the coast, ringed plovers and oystercatchers nest on open shingle beaches, especially at Saye, Corblets, and Longis. The Alderney Wildlife Trust manages these areas carefully, erecting protective fencing during nesting season and engaging the community in monitoring efforts.
The island is also a vital stopover for migrating birds, and its heathland, grassland, and freshwater ponds provide habitat for rare invertebrates and wildflowers.
Three Walks on Alderney to Discover the Islands Secrets
1. Walks on Alderney. The Fort Trail – Clonque to Tourgis and Back
Distance: 5 km (3 miles)
Terrain: Moderate with some steep climbs and uneven coastal paths
Highlights: Victorian forts, dramatic coastal views, WWII bunkers
Start near Fort Clonque, a dramatic outpost built on a tidal causeway. Now managed by the Landmark Trust, it’s one of the most photographed places on the island. Follow the coastal path northward past wildflower meadows and scrub, keeping an eye out for wheatears, stonechats, and peregrines above the cliffs.
The route includes several short, sharp hills as you gain height towards Fort Tourgis—once housing over 300 men and armed with dozens of guns. The fort’s massive structure and its extensive WWII bunkers are partly open to explore, offering commanding views over Braye Harbour and the island’s north coast.
Loop back inland through open farmland and hedgerows alive with birdsong.
2. Walks on Alderney. Clifftop and Gannet Lookout Walk – Fort Albert to Les Etacs
Distance: 6.5 km (4 miles)
Terrain: Moderate, with a few steep inclines and exposed cliff edges
Highlights: Seabird colonies, sea views, WWII lookouts, maritime flora
Begin at Fort Albert, with its rusting guns and ivy-covered stonework, then follow the coast path west. The path is narrow and undulating, winding through maritime heathland dotted with gorse and sea campion.
As you reach the cliffs above Les Etacs, the view opens dramatically. Thousands of gannets nest on the jagged offshore rocks, their white plumage dazzling against the blue sea. This is one of the island’s most iconic sights—and sounds, as the colony fills the air with harsh cries.
Further along, visit the WW2 German naval range-finding station perched on the clifftop before returning inland via wooded valleys.
3. Walks on Alderney. Longis Nature and History Trail
Distance: 4 km (2.5 miles)
Terrain: Easy and mostly flat, suitable for families
Highlights: Nature reserve, WWII history, bird hides, Longis Bay
This circular walk starts at Longis Bay, where sweeping sands and a low-tide causeway offer peaceful views. Visit the remains of a Roman fort and WWII bunkers at Longis Common before entering the Longis Nature Reserve.
The reserve is a haven for wetland birds, including teal, little grebes, and herons, especially around the small pond and hide. Walkers may also spot lizards sunbathing on stone walls or hear the rasping call of sedge warblers from the reeds.
Finish your loop with a stroll past Longis Battery, with interpretation panels that explain its wartime role.
Alderney Museum: A Portal to the Past
Don’t leave the island without visiting the Alderney Museum, housed in a charming 1790s schoolhouse in St Anne. Exhibits span Alderney’s prehistory, Roman archaeology, Elizabethan shipwrecks, and Victorian military might—all the way to the harsh realities of the Nazi occupation.
Award-winning and volunteer-run, the museum also hosts expert talks and community events throughout the year. Its displays on the German labour camps and recently uncovered Roman remains are especially poignant and powerful.
Summary
Alderney is an island of contrasts—peaceful beaches beside fearsome tides, wild clifftops alongside carefully tended fortifications, and rich wildlife woven through a complex and often difficult history. It’s an ideal destination for walkers who like their paths laced with stories, and for travellers drawn to rugged beauty with a hint of mystery. Find out more about Alderny’s wildlife from Alderney Wildlife Trust.
Getting There: Flights run from Southampton and Guernsey. Seasonal ferries operate from the UK and other Channel Islands.
Best Time to Visit: Spring and early summer offer the best birdwatching, wildflowers, and walking weather. Come and try our Walks on Alderney.
Whether you’re scanning the skies for seabirds, pondering centuries of military strategy, or wandering through untouched nature reserves, Alderney is guaranteed to leave a lasting impression.
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