Lundy Island: Puffins, Pirates and Peace in the Bristol Channel

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If you’re looking for an island escape that combines windswept cliffs, puffin colonies, and pirate history—with zero traffic, Wi-Fi, or stress—then Lundy might just be Britain’s best-kept secret. Just 12 miles off the coast of North Devon, this tiny granite outcrop in the Bristol Channel feels like another world, where nature rules and time slows down.

Why Visit Lundy?

Lundy is a place of superlatives:

  • The first Marine Conservation Zone in the UK
  • Home to some of the most important seabird colonies in England
  • A haven for wild goats, ponies, deer, and even feral sheep
  • And hands down one of the best digital detox destinations around

It’s wild, it’s remote, and it’s full of stories—from Bronze Age settlers to 20th-century idealists who tried to declare it a kingdom of their own.

Getting to Lundy

To get there, hop aboard the MS Oldenburg, the island’s ferry, from Bideford or Ilfracombe (March–October). The crossing takes around 2 hours—expect seabirds, sea breezes, and maybe a dolphin or two. In winter, you can travel by helicopter from Hartland Point in just 6 minutes.

Once you arrive at the quay, the island team greets you with a tractor trailer to carry luggage up the hill, leaving you free to walk the short climb to the heart of the island.

Lundy Island luggage landrover

A Walk Around Lundy

Lundy is only 3 miles long and half a mile wide, so a full coastal loop makes for a perfect day’s walk. Here’s a suggested circular:

Start at the Marisco Tavern, the island’s only pub and community hub. Head north up the eastern path, with sea views and grazing ponies. Stop at the VC Quarry viewpoint for a look back toward the mainland.

Continue to Beacon Hill Cemetery, the resting place of early Christian monks and later islanders. Then climb toward The Old Light, an 1820 lighthouse perched on the island’s highest point—climb the 147 steps for an unforgettable view. Once you are at the top take a rest in the deck chairs!

Follow the west coast path back down—rugged, exposed, and alive with seabirds. This is prime puffin country in spring and early summer, especially around Jenny’s Cove. Look out for razorbills, guillemots, fulmars, shags, and kittiwakes nesting on the sheer cliffs. Peregrine falcons nest here too—Lundy is one of the best places in southern England to watch them hunt seabirds on the wing.

Perhaps most impressively, Manx shearwaters—once nearly extinct on Lundy—have made a dramatic comeback since the island was declared rat-free in 2006. At dusk in summer, you might hear their eerie calls as they return from the open sea.

Complete your loop at the Battery, a Victorian gunning platform, before heading back to the tavern for something restorative.

Distance: ~6 miles (10 km)

Time: 3–4 hours, including birdwatching stops

Difficulty: Moderate, with some steep paths and uneven ground

Lundy Island map

Wildlife Highlights

  • Puffins (April to July): Nesting in burrows on grassy cliff slopes
  • Manx shearwaters: Recolonising successfully thanks to conservation work
  • Razorbills, guillemots, kittiwakes: Crowd the vertical cliffs in noisy colonies
  • Shags and fulmars: Nesting on ledges and rocky outcrops
  • Peregrine falcons: Often seen diving at speeds of up to 200mph
  • Atlantic grey seals: Frequently seen hauled out on the rocks or in the water
  • Soay sheep, Sika deer, wild goats, and Lundy ponies: All roam freely

Underwater, Lundy is a diver’s dream. The marine reserve boasts kelp forests, reef systems, and shipwrecks like the MV Robert, all teeming with life.

Lundy Island lighthouse steps

A Wild and Colourful History

Lundy’s history is as dramatic as its cliffs. Archaeological evidence points to Bronze Age burial mounds, and the island may have served as a seasonal base for prehistoric seafarers. Later came early Christians, who left behind inscribed stones and small chapels.

In the medieval era, Lundy became a pirate stronghold. The de Marisco family, who once owned the island, were accused of piracy and rebellion—so much so that King Henry III sent troops to storm Lundy in 1242. The ruins of Marisco Castle, built to reassert royal control, still overlook the harbour.

During the 17th century, Barbary pirates raided the island and enslaved locals. Later owners used it as a smuggling base. In the Victorian period, granite quarrying and farming changed the landscape, and a population of over 300 people lived and worked here.

In the 20th century, Lundy became a quirky personal kingdom under Martin Coles Harman, who issued his own Lundy currency and postage stamps. He was eventually fined for “unofficial coinage” but remains a colourful figure in the island’s lore.

Today, Lundy is owned by the National Trust and leased to the Landmark Trust, which conserves its buildings and manages its delicate habitats.

Staying on Lundy Island

There’s no village, just 23 self-catering Landmark Trust properties—from coastguard cottages to castle towers and converted lighthouses. There’s also a campsite for the hardy.

  • No cars
  • No Wi-Fi
  • No mobile signal

Instead: log fires, starry skies, the sound of seabirds, and conversations over pints in the Marisco Tavern, which serves hearty meals and has its own beer garden.

Essentials

  • Food & drink: Tavern, small shop (pre-order groceries if staying overnight)
  • Footwear: Sturdy walking shoes or boots
  • Weather: Bring layers—it can change fast
  • Binoculars: A must for bird and seal watching

Final Thoughts

Lundy is not just a trip. It’s a retreat. A windswept, off-the-grid, seabird-strewn bolt-hole where you reconnect with nature, history, and the rhythm of the tides.

You’ll leave with sea salt in your hair, puffin photos in your camera, and a strong desire to come back next year.

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