Khwai Game Reserve – Wild Dogs, Community Conservation and the Spirit of the Delta

The pups get there first—ears too big for their heads, tails flicking with excitement. Behind them come the adults, purposeful and lean. In the soft light of early evening, five adult wild dogs and eight cubs dismantle a warthog in the dust. There’s no sound but the tear of skin, the rasp of breath, and the click of our guide’s camera. This is Khwai Game Reserve, and this is the wild.

Located on the northeastern edge of the Okavango Delta, Khwai Game Reserve is one of Botswana’s finest wildlife destinations. It’s wild, accessible, and different—offering not just extraordinary predator encounters, but also a unique model of community-owned conservation that shows how tourism can work for both people and nature.

We spent May 28 to 30 exploring Khwai and staying at the relaxed Hippo Pools Camp. What we found was a place alive with movement, voice and vibrancy—African ground hornbills calling at dawn, lions roaring across the floodplain, and wild dogs tearing across the bush in fluid motion.

A Community-Owned Conservation Model- Khwai Game Reserve

Khwai Game Reserve sits adjacent to Moremi, separated not by fences but by philosophy. Roughly half of the reserve is state-managed land under conservation protection, while the other half is managed by local villages through the Khwai Development Trust. This hybrid model allows both sustainable tourism and subsistence use, giving local people a stake in the area’s health and future.

Income from tourism—whether from mobile safaris, lodge leases, or guiding fees—feeds directly back into the community. It supports schools, medical clinics, and conservation jobs. Visitors who stay at locally owned camps or use community guides are contributing to this success story.

Importantly, this model works without compromising the wildness of the place. There are no fences, and wildlife roams freely between Khwai, Moremi, and Chobe. It’s one of the few places in Botswana where you can enjoy the same biodiversity as the national parks, but with the added dimension of culture and local benefit.

Wildlife Highlights: Wild Dogs and Lions

Khwai is predator country. On our first evening, we found 12 wild dogs resting in the shade—ten adults and two curious pups peeking out from behind a log. They moved in a pack, effortless and purposeful. That night, on a rare night drive, we saw them again—five adults and eight cubs gathered around the remains of a freshly killed warthog. The adults kept watch as the pups chewed, tugged and scrapped over the carcass.

Night drives are allowed in Khwai, unlike in most of Botswana’s national parks, and they offer a rare opportunity to see nocturnal species like civets, genets and porcupines, as well as the big predators when they’re most active.

We also spotted two massive male lions, resting near a dry watercourse at dawn. Their manes were thick with dust, their bellies full. Our guide believed they were brothers, recently pushed out of a pride and making their way toward the eastern fringe of the reserve. They watched us briefly, then turned back into the bush.

Other highlights during our stay included:

• A monitor lizard basking near camp, its forked tongue tasting the air
• Herds of elephants crossing floodplains at dusk
• Tsessebe, red lechwe, and waterbuck grazing the edges of the channels
• A family of African ground hornbills marching through the savannah at sunrise, their deep calls echoing across the floodplain

Geology and the Landscape

Geologically, Khwai sits on the edge of the Okavango Delta alluvial fan, formed over millennia by sediment carried down from the Angolan Highlands. Beneath the floodplains are ancient layers of Kalahari sand, which filter and absorb the water, creating seasonal flood cycles that define the ecology of the region.

The Khwai River—a channel that never dries entirely—winds through the centre of the reserve. Its shape changes with the flood. Each year, it fills and recedes, nourishing reedbeds, lagoons, and groves of leadwood, knobthorn, and mopane.

This dynamic hydrology means that Khwai never looks the same two years running. Channels form and vanish, floodplains expand and shrink. It’s a living, breathing landscape, and its constant change is one of the reasons wildlife thrives here.

Birdlife and Ground Hornbills

Khwai is a birder’s delight. Beyond the eagles, herons, and bee-eaters, one species stood out during our stay: the Southern ground hornbill. These large, red-faced birds are declining in many parts of Africa, but here, they still thrive.

We saw a group of three, stalking across the open plain like feathered velociraptors. Their booming calls are among the lowest-pitched vocalisations in the bird world—deep, resonant, and unforgettable. Watching them feed, dig and move in their slow, deliberate way was a highlight we didn’t expect.

Other notable sightings included:

• Lilac-breasted rollers
• Grey go-away-birds
• Wattled cranes in flooded sections
• African openbill storks, cracking molluscs on the sandbanks

Where to Stay: Lodges and Camps in Khwai Game Reserve

Khwai has a mix of rustic, mid-range, and luxury accommodation, many of them either community-owned or operating in partnership with local groups.

We stayed at Hippo Pools Camp, a small, relaxed camp with good access to the river and excellent guiding. It’s comfortable without being flashy, and its open views across the floodplain are spectacular.

Other options in the area include:

• Sable Alley (Natural Selection) – Upmarket tents with a sleek aesthetic and private plunge pools, known for good wild dog sightings.
• Khwai Tented Camp (African Bush Camps) – Community-run and atmospheric, with excellent environmental credentials.
• Little Machaba (Machaba Safaris) – Elegant and family-friendly, located under large trees with views over the water.
• Khwai River Lodge (Belmond) – A more traditional safari lodge with spa services, great for those wanting creature comforts.
• Mobile Safaris – Several operators run multi-day mobile safaris through Khwai, offering tented bush experiences with top guiding and bush cuisine.

Self-drive visitors can also camp at Magotho Campsite, though it’s unfenced and very wild—expect wildlife in camp and basic facilities only.

The Khwai Experience

What makes Khwai special isn’t just the wildlife—it’s the flexibility and intimacy of the experience.

You can drive yourself or be guided, take night drives, go on walking safaris, or glide through the floodplain in a mokoro (when water levels allow). Unlike the busier corners of the Delta, Khwai feels personal. You often have sightings to yourself. You see fewer vehicles. And you hear more from your guide—not just about the animals, but about the people who live here too.

And that’s one of the most rewarding parts of Khwai. The guides are often from the area. They know the flood cycles, the animal movements, and the cultural stories of the land. They’re proud to show visitors what their community has helped protect.

When a portion of your safari fee helps build a new school roof or pay a teacher’s salary, it changes how you experience the bush. You realise that conservation isn’t just about lions and leopards—it’s about people, too.

When to Visit Khwai Game Reserve

Our visit in late May offered clear skies, mild days, and cooling evenings. The bush was beginning to dry out, and game viewing was excellent, with predators more visible and water sources becoming central to wildlife movement.

The best time to visit Khwai is from May to October, during the dry season when floodwaters are stable and game viewing peaks. From November to March, the area becomes lush and green. It’s a beautiful time for birding and photography, but access can be more challenging.

Night drives and walking safaris are available year-round, depending on water levels and safety conditions.

Khwai Game Reserve – Where Wildness Meets Community

Khwai is more than a game reserve—it’s a living landscape where conservation and culture meet. It’s a place where wild dogs raise pups on communal land, where lions cross paths with cattle trails, and where baobabs grow beside cooking fires.

It’s a place where you can feel the wildness—but also the wisdom—of Botswana’s approach to sustainable tourism. It’s personal, powerful and rooted in something far deeper than just game viewing.

Come for the lions and the dogs. Stay for the stories, the people, and the way the earth feels under your boots. In Khwai, safari isn’t just something you observe—it’s something you’re part of.

Check out our other Safari Botswana blogs –

• Safari Botswana – A Tourist Heaven of Wildlife, Wilderness and Wonder
• Visiting the Okavango Delta – What You Need to Know Before You Go
• Nxai Pan National Park – Salt, Stars and Safari Stories in the Sands
• Makgadikgadi Pans National Park – Zebra, Rivers and the Silence of the Salt
• Savuti – Wild Dogs, Lions and Rock Outcrops in Chobe’s Wild Heart
• Moremi Game Reserve – Flooded Forests, Wild Dogs and the Pulse of the Okavango
• What to Expect on a Mokoro Ride in the Okavango Delta
• Walking Safari in the Okavango Delta – What to Expect
• Ancient Voices on Stone: Bushman Rock Art at Savuti, Chobe National Park
• Mobile Safari Camp or Self-Drive?
• Why Do Hunting Safaris Still Exist in Botswana?
• Are There African Wild Dogs in Botswana? Tracking One of Africa’s Rarest Predators
• Are There Ground Hornbills in Botswana?
• Dr Livingstone in Botswana: Footsteps Across the Kalahari
• Is the Hippo the Most Dangerous Animal in Africa? It Might Just Be
• Sunset Safari on the Zambezi: An Evening Boat Ride from Kasane, Botswana