Just across a narrow stretch of sea from Papa Westray lies a low, green rise of land ringed by rock and whispering surf — the Holm of Papay. At first glance, it looks modest: a treeless islet, exposed to wind and weather, uninhabited and quiet. But this small tidal island is one of the most archaeologically intriguing and spiritually evocative places in Orkney. Its stillness hides a wealth of human history, Norse connections, and ancient reverence — and visiting it is a rare and unforgettable experience.
Holm of Papay; A Place Apart
The Holm of Papay is physically close to Papa Westray — just a few hundred metres across the water — but it feels a world away. The island can only be reached by boat or kayak, and then only in calm weather and at the right tide. There’s no jetty, no pier, no marked path. Landing involves scrambling onto rocks, often slippery with kelp or swirling with surf. As such, the Holm receives few visitors, and those who do make it there speak of a hush — a sense of crossing into older time.
Once you’re ashore, the island is yours. Low turf, rocky outcrops, and the cries of seabirds surround you. There are no buildings, no fences, no people. But beneath your boots lies a complex story of prehistory, early Christianity, and the Norse era — still visible in stones, earthworks, and carvings.
The Inscriptions and the Sacred Past
What makes the Holm truly special is its archaeological and spiritual significance. Near the highest point of the islet lie the remains of an early chapel and burial ground, believed to date back to the 8th or 9th century, possibly earlier. The site is unexcavated but clearly marked by subtle turf mounds and eroded stonework, thought to be linked to an early Christian hermitage or mission outpost.
The most remarkable feature is a carved cross slab bearing a runic inscription, found near the chapel site. The slab’s runes and cross suggest a blending of Norse and Christian traditions — likely marking the grave of an early Norse convert, or perhaps a local holy man. This artefact was removed for protection and now resides in the Orkney Museum, but the spot where it stood is still visited by those drawn to Orkney’s earliest religious roots.
The Holm is thought to have been a place of pilgrimage and seclusion, perhaps a burial island for significant figures. In Orkney, islands often carried sacred or symbolic meaning — and the isolation of the Holm, just out of reach at high tide, speaks to this tradition of separating the spiritual from the everyday.
The Challenge of Visiting
Getting to the Holm of Papay is not straightforward, and that’s part of what makes the visit feel like a pilgrimage rather than a tour. You must first get to Papa Westray itself — by ferry or air — and then arrange a boat trip with a local guide, often in a small dinghy or RIB, and only when sea conditions are suitable.
Some adventurous visitors make the crossing by sea kayak, carefully timing their trip to avoid strong currents and swells. Others wade at low tide, but this is not recommended due to slippery rocks and fast-changing water levels. For safety and interpretation, going with someone who knows the tides and the terrain is essential.
There are currently no signs or formal interpretation panels on the Holm. That, too, is part of its power. You walk on ground shaped by memory, not curation. It is a place to feel as much as see — to pause, listen, and consider the people who came here not for a view, but for peace, reflection, and perhaps, eternity.
Why Visit the Holm of Papay?
Because there are few places left where the past is not explained but simply present. Because standing alone on a windswept islet, looking back to the crofts and beaches of Papay, you understand the draw of solitude. Because it offers a window into early Orkney — where sea was the road, islands were sacred, and silence was not emptiness, but something deeper.
The Holm of Papay is not on the usual tourist trail. It does not advertise itself. But for those willing to go the extra mile — and the extra splash — it offers an experience that lingers longer than many grander destinations.
Help us to guide you though Scotland. Lots of other blogs available on Orkney like ‘Papa Westray: Community, History and Wild Shores on Orkney’s Northern Edge‘