For many travellers, Whitehorse is a place they pass through on the way to somewhere else. It’s the main gateway to the Yukon, a territory larger than Spain but with fewer than 50,000 people. Whitehorse itself is home to around 30,000, making it both the capital and the largest community in the Yukon. But Whitehorse is more than just a transit stop. With its riverside setting, frontier history, and surprisingly lively culture, it’s well worth a day or two of your time.
Getting There and Getting Around
Most visitors arrive in Whitehorse by air. Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport sits only a 10-minute drive from the centre of town. Taxis are available outside the terminal, and many hotels offer a shuttle service. If you prefer to be independent, hire cars can be collected at the airport, which is often the best way to explore the Yukon more widely.
Once in town, Whitehorse is compact enough to explore on foot. The waterfront, shops, and restaurants are all within walking distance of each other. For longer journeys, local buses operate a simple service, but if you’re heading out of town, you’ll want a car.
The Paddlewheel Experience
One of Whitehorse’s most iconic attractions is the S.S. Klondike, a sternwheeler (paddlewheel riverboat) that once plied the Yukon River, carrying goods and people during the days when river transport was the territory’s lifeline. Today the vessel is permanently docked on the riverfront as a National Historic Site.
Visitors can tour the decks, cabins, and cargo holds, getting a sense of life on board in the early 20th century. The interpretive displays explain how vital these boats were before the highways came, and what it meant to travel the length of the Yukon River when there were few other options.
If you want to extend the theme, take a stroll along the Whitehorse waterfront where sections of the old wharves and railway remain, reminders of the city’s role in linking the goldfields to the outside world.
Walk to the Canyon and Back
One of the best short hikes from Whitehorse is the Miles Canyon trail. It’s only a few kilometres from downtown and can be reached by car, bike, or even on foot if you are up for a longer walk.
The Yukon River narrows here into a dramatic gorge with fast-flowing, emerald-green water rushing between steep volcanic cliffs. A suspension bridge offers stunning views, and there are several walking routes that loop through the surrounding forest.
The classic walk is from town out to the canyon and back, around 15 kilometres return if you do it all on foot. Many people choose to drive or cycle part of the way and then walk the riverside section. Either way, it’s a chance to see the power of the Yukon River up close, and it’s especially beautiful in autumn when the birch and aspen trees turn gold.
Shops and Supplies
Whitehorse is the Yukon’s commercial hub, so if you’re heading further into the wilderness, this is the place to stock up. Main Street has a mix of outdoor gear shops, bookshops, souvenir outlets, and cafés. A few highlights include:
- Mac’s Fireweed Books – a large independent bookshop with an excellent selection of Yukon history, Indigenous stories, and maps.
- Coast Mountain Sports – the go-to store for outdoor clothing, camping equipment, and paddling gear.
- Yukon Artists @ Work – a co-operative gallery showcasing local art, crafts, and jewellery.
- General stores and supermarkets – large branches of Canadian chains such as Save-On-Foods and Walmart carry everything from groceries to camping kit.
Don’t miss the small bakeries and coffee shops on Main Street, which provide perfect fuel before or after a day outdoors.
Culture and History
Whitehorse may be modern compared with Dawson City, but it has its own fascinating history. The Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre near the airport tells the story of the ice-age land bridge that once linked Asia and North America, complete with full-sized mammoth and giant beaver replicas.
Downtown, the MacBride Museum of Yukon History is another must-see. It houses exhibits on the Klondike Gold Rush, early aviation, and the building of the Alaska Highway. The museum also preserves the log cabin that once belonged to Sam McGee, the character immortalised in Robert Service’s famous poem.
The city has a thriving arts scene, too. Local galleries, live music venues, and festivals mean there’s often something happening in the evenings.
Eating and Drinking
For a small city, Whitehorse offers a wide variety of food. Options range from hearty diners serving pancakes and burgers to restaurants focusing on northern specialities like Arctic char or elk. Craft beer lovers should head to Yukon Brewing, a local brewery producing a wide range of ales and lagers, with tastings available.
Outdoor Activities
If you have more than a day in Whitehorse, the surrounding wilderness is on your doorstep. Canoeing or kayaking sections of the Yukon River is a highlight for many. Guided tours are available for beginners, while experienced paddlers can rent gear and set off independently.
In summer, hiking and mountain biking trails spread out from the edge of town into rolling forest and hills. In winter, Whitehorse becomes a hub for snowshoeing, dog-sledding, and northern lights viewing.
A Base for Yukon Adventures
Whitehorse isn’t just a destination in itself – it’s also the launching point for wider exploration. The Alaska Highway runs right through town, while side roads lead to Kluane National Park, the remote communities of the Southern Lakes, and north towards Dawson City. Many organised tours begin and end in Whitehorse, and the town has all the services travellers need before heading further into the Yukon’s wild spaces.
Practical Tips
- Airport transfers: taxis are reliable, but pre-book hotel shuttles if possible.
- Weather: Whitehorse has long, cold winters and short, warm summers. Even in July, pack layers.
- Daylight: summer days are long, with the sun barely setting, while winter days can be very short. Plan your activities accordingly.
- Bear awareness: if hiking around the city, remember that black bears sometimes wander close. Carry bear spray and make noise on the trails.
Final Thoughts
Whitehorse may not have the frontier glamour of Dawson or the wilderness vastness of Kluane, but it has its own character. It’s a city where you can tour a historic paddlewheel boat in the morning, shop for supplies and art in the afternoon, and walk to a dramatic canyon before dinner. Add in friendly locals, excellent museums, and its role as the hub of the Yukon, and you have a place that deserves more than just a quick stopover.
Whether you’re starting a grand Yukon road trip or simply passing through on your way north, give Whitehorse a day or two. You’ll discover that this small capital city packs in far more than you might expect.
Find out more about our Yukon canoe adventures – Canoeing Big Salmon River, Canoeing the Yukon.
