Behind the Canvas: Secrets of a Botswana Mobile Safari
From Nxai Pan’s sun-scorched salt flats to the glassy waterways of the Okavango Delta, a mobile safari in Botswana is unlike any other journey. For sixteen days, we travelled off-grid through some of Africa’s wildest landscapes, sleeping in a canvas tent, waking to lions in the night, and following the rhythms of the bush. This is our first-hand account of what it’s really like to go behind the canvas.
Getting There: From Scotland to Safari
Our journey began in Inverness, flying via KLM through Amsterdam and Johannesburg (where we spent two days) before arriving in Maun, Botswana. After a night in town, our safari company came to meet us and double-check the final arrangements. The next morning, our 16-day private safari for just the two of us began.
Our Safari Booking Partners
- We booked the safari via Vincent at Double Tracks
- It seems we were subcontracted to Safari Addicts for the mobile safari section. It was the Safari Addicts Team who came to our lodgings in Maun for the briefing about the Safari before we began
- Flights were booked via the reliable Flight Centre UK
Your Safari Team and Setup
We travelled in a rugged 4×4 Land Cruiser with four wonderful crew members:
- Fanabi – Our experienced and knowledgeable guide
- Sam – A skilled and creative cook
- Prince – Camp hos, storyteller, and all-round legend
- G – A shy but hardworking 19-year-old scullery trainee
Together, they brought the bush to life and took exceptional care of us.
Mobile Camp Life
We visited four mobile safari camps:
- Nxai Pan Mobile Camp (had excellent camp toilets with flush toilets and warm water showers, wow!)
- Okavango Delta Mokoro Camp (pit toilet as part of tent and fire for us to gaze at the stars)
- Khwai Mobile Camp (pit toilet as part of tent)
- Savute Mobile Camp (pit toilet as part of tent and fire for us to gaze at the stars or listen to the elephants in the bush)
Our tent was surprisingly luxurious, with a full-sized bed and an outdoor en-suite toilet hole area. Prince built us a deep pit toilet each time we moved camp, and bush showers were offered most evenings.
Meals were served in a shady mess gazebo with tilley lamps, solar lights, and a view of the bush. We had tea, coffee, and water available at all times, with a hot water outside the tent each morning for freshening up.
Chobe Safari Lodge and Shearwater Explorers Village were part of the 16 days adventure but by then we had moved into lodges.
The Daily Rhythm
Days started early (but that’s ok because we do too):
- 5.30–6am: Wake-up and hot drinks
- 6.15am: Light breakfast before morning game drive
- Mid-morning: Return for brunch/breakfast, served between 11:30 and 2pm (you never knew!)
- Early afternoon: Siesta and downtime (illustrate, or write up bird/beastie/animal list)
- 3.30pm: Tea and biscuits
- 4–6 pm: Afternoon/evening game drive (our bed would have been ‘turned down’ = made, for our return)
- 8.30pm: Dinner under the stars until we managed to convince the team that dinner at 7 pm was what we wanted
The first few meals were plentiful—soup, mains, and dessert—but by the end, dinner was often just one course. We didn’t go hungry, but standards slipped slightly over time.
On travel days we often had a packed lunch which was super tasty. Also morning coffees and biscuits whilst out on safari was a nice touch in the safari adventure of the day.
Safari Highlights
- Wildlife galore – wild dogs (4 different times), ground hornbills, bat eared fox, elephants, lions, giraffes, hippos, and countless birds
- Mokoro rides through the Okavango Delta’s peaceful channels
- Bush walks and night drives, tracking wildlife on foot and by torchlight (vehicle)
- Sundowners – Cory with a gin, me with Amarula, toasting the African sunset
- Campfire evenings under the stars, the milky way, as magical as our stargazing nights in Melvaig, Wester Ross
Hygiene and Comfort
Despite the remote settings, hygiene was excellent. We always had access to handwashing and showers (towels were provided). No one got ill—testament to the team’s care and Sam’s clean cooking.
The Land Cruiser was comfortable on the rough tracks, but bitterly cold on tarmac roads (80km/ph) unless the plastic panels were down (We had to request this).
Travel days dragged: we’d leave camp packed up for a morning drive, return to load bags, then linger for hours in the vehicle to delay arrival until the new camp was ready. Sometimes stuck for up to ten hours unnecessarily.
Eventually, we requested to wait in signal areas to catch up on messages and let the camp vehicle pass us, avoiding slow, time-wasting and chilly drives.
Connectivity
We bought eSIMs from GomoWorld, expecting limited reception (as warned). But we were glad we had them. During transfers between parks, we occasionally caught a signal to check messages or share updates.
What’s included
- All entry fees to park, game drives, boat rides, guided walks, night drive
- All meals, tea, coffee, water (bottle of Gin and a bottle of Amarula, burp!)
- Safari Guide, 4×4 vehicle and staff
- Stand-up-inside spacious tent, full sized comfy bed, fresh laundered sheets, towels, bedside bug spray (we scooshed each night just to be sure), homemade soap (nice touch)
What could have been better?
The Day’s Plan: Double, double, double check. After a few days of guess work, we started trying to establish schedules and timings. Double check things until you are sure how the day is planned to run, as some days we were very frustrated. 10 hours in a car, at first we were told we would be too early for the camp, then when we saw some elephants we asked to stop for a minute, only to be told we were going to be late. Then when we arrived at the park gate, at 5:45pm the support vehicle hadn’t arrived (we left them at 8am), yet we had no communication about what is and was happening.
Travel Days: I know we just mentioned this but this nearly spoiled our trip-of-a-lifetime! You’ll need patience on travel days, in fact this is something they need to improve, check with the guests. What does the guest want? What suits them? To drive slowly for 10 hours or perhaps stop in a village or cross roads with reception? Or stop somewhere where they can read their book or take notes for an hour or two, instead of mindless slow bouncy driving?
Meals and Meal Times: When do they want evening meal? 9pm or 7pm? Ask, ask again.
Try to establish clear communications as early as possible in the adventure to avoid any frustrations.
Be prepared for rustic luxury, but the rewards are immense—sunsets, silence, stars, and wildlife you’ll never forget.
wee wild adventures
What would we do differently?
More time in the Okovango! One full day wasn’t enough for this amazing place. Even all the crew were happiest at this camp. They even caught some fresh fish for supper!
Don’t Forget to Bring
- Warm clothes, padded jacket, hat, gloves
- Clothes for warm afternoons (shorts, sunglasses, sun hats, merino tshirts)
- Iphone (camera), binoculars, bird books, Big Blue Solar Charger, Power Pack, power cables galore (not all outlets work with old USB or new USB cables
- Head torch
- Notepad and paper (or if you are an artist like Mandy, your moleskin and art materials)
Final Thoughts
A luxury mobile safari in Botswana is more than just a holiday, it’s a deep dive into the rhythm of the wild. You sleep under canvas yet want for nothing: a full-sized bed, hot water, expertly prepared meals, and the comforts of home transported into the heart of nature. Each night, we drifted off to the sounds of hyena whooping, lions calling in the distance, and sometimes even the deep rumbles of passing elephants. Each morning began with a fresh breeze, birdsong, and cafetière coffee.
The sky alone is worth the journey. We watched the Milky Way rise like a brushstroke across a pitch-black sky, just as we once did in Wester Ross – only here, it came with the crackle of a fire and the scent of mopane wood.
Botswana itself is breathtaking: vast national parks, pristine landscapes, and wildlife that is truly wild. We felt a genuine commitment to conservation – not just in the way the parks are run, but in the care and respect shown by our guide and camp crew. With the right crew (thank you, Fanabi, Sam, G and Prince), it becomes more than a holiday. It becomes part of our life story. This is a country of friendly faces and warm welcomes, where you feel both looked after and left to breathe.
We came for the animals and birds, and we got them in abundance. A Botswana safari it becomes more than a holiday. It becomes part of your life story.
If you’re looking for raw adventure without sacrificing comfort, this is it.
Wee Wild Adventure
Have you experienced a mobile safari—or are you dreaming of one? We’d love to hear your thoughts or questions. Just send us an email or leave a comment.
And if you’re planning your own trip to Botswana, feel free to bookmark this post or share it with a fellow traveller. The wild really is waiting.
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