The Magic of the Zambezi at Sunset
Sunset Safari on the Zambezi. There are few places on Earth that match the atmosphere of the Zambezi River at sunset, especially when you’re gliding through its channels on a slow-moving boat. This is not just a river—it’s a lifeline, a border, a stage for wild drama, and a source of national pride. From Kasane, in Botswana’s far northeast corner, you can board a sunset cruise that takes you into a watery world where hippos grunt, elephants bathe, and crocodiles glide through reed-lined channels.
It’s a world where the golden light of evening paints the river, and where, if you listen closely, you can hear the stories the land has to tell—including one about how Botswana came to claim the river’s widest and wildest stretch.
Setting Off: 3–6pm from Kasane
Your journey begins in the bustling border town of Kasane, where four countries—Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe—converge. Just past the jetty, you board your boat around 3pm, ready for a peaceful drift through the Chobe River section of the upper Zambezi.
We opted for a comfortable, two-level boat: shaded seating below, open deck above. Almost as soon as we left the jetty, the noise of the town faded behind us and a world of riverbanks, islands and channels opened up.
Within the first half hour, we’d already seen three crocodiles, two monitor lizards, and a bull elephant standing knee-deep in the shallows, sucking up gallons of water and blowing it over his back. Hippos peered at us with suspicious eyes from beneath the surface, nostrils puffing as they kept watch. Some lay fully submerged; others stood shoulder-deep in weed-choked pools, half asleep in the afternoon sun.
Then came something truly unexpected: a shoulder massage from one of the cruise staff, part of a small luxury included in the trip. Paired with a cold drink and a plate of spicy Botswanan-style samosas, it added a touch of indulgence to an otherwise wild experience.
A River of Controversy: The Kazungula Dispute
As the sun moved lower in the sky, our guide pointed to a broad stretch of water, wider and calmer than any other section we’d passed. “You know,” he said, “this part of the river almost wasn’t ours.”
He was referring to a territorial dispute known as the Kazungula Triangle, which lingered for decades between Botswana and Namibia. The issue revolved around Sedudu Island (called Kasikili Island in Namibia), a small but strategically located landmass right in the middle of the Zambezi floodplain near Kasane. In the dry season it looks like little more than a sandbank, but during flood times it spreads out into broad lagoons—perfect habitat for wildlife and crucial for water access.
Both nations claimed it. Botswana said it was part of Chobe District; Namibia said it belonged to Caprivi. The matter was escalated to the International Court of Justice (ICJ) in 1999.
The ICJ ruled in Botswana’s favour, stating that the deeper channel of the river flowed north of the island (the usual criterion for determining international boundaries on navigable rivers). The victory granted Botswana the wider southern channel, rich in wildlife and tourism potential.
Today, that same stretch is the one your cruise meanders through—the one where elephants drink, crocodiles sunbathe, and birds dive for fish. It’s a section of river not just beautiful, but hard-won.
Wildlife and Wild Light – Sunset Safari on the Zambezi
Back on the boat, we drifted along the floodplain as the sky softened into warm pastels. A large group of elephants with calves stood quietly on the bank, trunks swinging in rhythm as they drank. A pair of fish eagles called from the treetops. The guide cut the engine so we could listen to the layered sounds of the river: hippos snorting, frogs chirping, birds in constant conversation.
Crocodiles lounged on the banks, mouths agape to cool down, and several monitor lizards slithered past like prehistoric shadows. At one point, we watched a group of wading storks work a shallow pool, lifting each foot with exaggerated care.
The birdlife here is phenomenal—kingfishers, bee-eaters, egrets, darters, African skimmers, and the occasional malachite flash across the water. Even for casual observers, it’s a spectacle of movement and colour.
And then—just as the sun reached the horizon—the sky turned flame-orange, and the whole river seemed to light up. Reflections of elephants, reeds, and ripples danced on the surface. It was one of those rare moments that make you stop speaking entirely.
Practical Info: What You Need to Know
Most Sunset Safari on the Zambezi in Kasane run from 3pm to 6pm and can be arranged through your lodge or one of the local operators. Prices vary depending on boat size and inclusions, but many offer drinks and snacks, sometimes even gourmet platters or massages like ours.
Bring:
- A light waterproof layer (it gets breezy on the water)
- A camera with a zoom lens
- Binoculars
- A hat and sunglasses for the earlier part of the trip
- A good insect repellent (mosquitoes emerge as the sun drops)
Don’t forget your passport if you’re taking a cruise that passes near the Namibia border, as some boats may include international sections of the river.
A Peaceful Power
In a region known for drama—lions roaring in Chobe, leopards stalking in Moremi—the Sunset Safari on the Zambezi offers a gentler kind of power. It’s the quiet ripple of water around a boat’s hull, the close-up stare of a crocodile, the rumble of a distant elephant, and the silence of a stork taking flight at dusk.
And as you drift back towards Kasane with the light fading behind you, it’s hard not to reflect on how much beauty this river holds—and how lucky Botswana is to call it home.
Check out our other safari blogs –
- Safari Botswana – A Tourist Heaven of Wildlife, Wilderness and Wonder
- Visiting the Okavango Delta – What You Need to Know Before You Go
- Nxai Pan National Park – Salt, Stars and Safari Stories in the Sands
- Makgadikgadi Pans National Park – Zebra, Rivers and the Silence of the Salt
- Savuti – Wild Dogs, Lions and Rock Outcrops in Chobe’s Wild Heart
- Moremi Game Reserve – Flooded Forests, Wild Dogs and the Pulse of the Okavango
- Khwai Game Reserve – Wild Dogs, Community Conservation and the Spirit of the Delta
- What to Expect on a Mokoro Ride in the Okavango Delta
- Walking Safari in the Okavango Delta – What to Expect
- Ancient Voices on Stone: Bushman Rock Art at Savuti, Chobe National Park
- Mobile Safari Camp or Self-Drive?
- Why Do Hunting Safaris Still Exist in Botswana?
- Are There African Wild Dogs in Botswana? Tracking One of Africa’s Rarest Predators
- Are There Ground Hornbills in Botswana?
- Dr Livingstone in Botswana: Footsteps Across the Kalahari
- Is the Hippo the Most Dangerous Animal in Africa? It Might Just Be