Two-Day Salkantay Trek: The Best and Hardest Moments
2–3 November 2026 | Salkantay Trekking | Cusco, Peru
Could we really tackle the Salkantay Trek in just two days, climb to a glacial lake and sleep beneath the stars? And would I manage the altitude after struggling so badly in Cusco?
We had booked a two-day adventure with Salkantay Trekking, a company offering something rather special. Instead of ordinary tents, we would spend the night in glass-roofed igloos high in the Andes.
Our itinerary included the beautiful Humantay Lake, the challenging Salkantay Pass and an unforgettable night at Sky Camp.
It promised to be quite an adventure!
Meeting Our Guide and Preparing for the Salkantay Trek
The evening before our trek, we attended a briefing at Salkantay Trekking’s office in Cusco. We met our guide, Saul, and two Australian ladies who would share our adventure. Lucy and Kara were wonderfully cheerful, enthusiastic and full of energy. We couldn’t have wished for better companions.
Even better, Lucy was a doctor and Kara was a paramedic! What excellent company for a high-altitude adventure.
The company provided duffel bags for our overnight belongings. Staff would transport these directly to Sky Camp, leaving us to carry our own daypacks.
We also received snack bags, waterproof backpack covers and trekking poles for the duration of our adventure.
Saul explained what to expect and what we should carry. The weather forecast looked promising, but conditions can change quickly in the mountains.
Suncream, sunglasses, hats, waterproof jackets, snacks and plenty of water were essential.
We left feeling excited, although I still had concerns about the altitude.
Day One: An Early Start from Cusco
Our minibus collected us between 4am and 4.30am. There were several other trekkers aboard, including people tackling the longer Salkantay route towards Machu Picchu.
We travelled for approximately two hours along the main road before stopping for a buffet breakfast.
Then came another hour along smaller mountain roads off the tarmac roads.
Eventually, we reached Challacancha, our starting point at approximately 3,800 metres above sea level.
There were benches where everyone could reorganise their belongings. Saul helped us decide what belonged in our daypacks and what could travel ahead in our duffel bags. With everything sorted, we collected our trekking poles and prepared to climb.
Walking Along an Ancient Inca Aqueduct
Our first challenge was a steep, zigzagging climb up the hillside. It was already hot, and the altitude made every step feel harder.
Younger trekkers regularly overtook us, many heading towards Machu Picchu on longer expeditions.
We simply kept going at our own pace.
Eventually, we reached an extraordinary piece of Inca engineering. An ancient aqueduct followed the mountainside. Parts of the water channel had modern black lining. Elsewhere, the original stonework remained visible. Even more remarkably, the water system still serves the local area. For much of the remaining walk, we followed this fascinating channel through beautiful Andean scenery.
Saul was an excellent guide.
He explained the history of the aqueduct and introduced us to the plants growing along the trail. We also learnt some Quechua words, including local names for familiar herbs. Mint is Muña! “Hakuchik!” or “Hakuchu!” = Lets Go!
He was friendly, knowledgeable and happy to answer our questions. We stopped frequently to admire the views, drink water and catch our breath.
I was particularly grateful for my new baseball cap, purchased in Cusco. It featured Peru, a llama and the Peruvian flag. Perfect!
Walking Along a 500-Year-Old Inca Aqueduct
One of the most fascinating discoveries on our trek was an ancient Inca aqueduct, dating back approximately 500 years. This remarkable feat of engineering channels water from the snowmelt and mountain streams of the Andes towards agricultural land and local communities. The Incas carefully constructed stone channels, using gravity to keep the water flowing naturally without pumps. Amazingly, the aqueduct is still in use today! As we walked alongside it, we could see sections of original Inca stonework alongside modern stretches lined with black waterproof material. It was extraordinary to follow a waterway that has helped sustain life in these mountains for centuries.
How Difficult Was the Walk at High Altitude?
I had struggled terribly during our first few days in Cusco. At approximately 3,400 metres, the altitude had hit me harder than expected. I suffered from headaches, exhaustion and an overwhelming desire to sleep.
As an asthma sufferer, I was especially concerned about managing the mountain trek. We had allowed three days to acclimatise, but I still found those first days difficult. Thankfully, although the walk was tiring, my headache had disappeared. That was a tremendous relief. Our first section covered approximately 7 kilometres, or 4.3 miles, from Challacancha to Soraypampa.
And finally, in the distance, we spotted our destination. Sky Camp!
Arriving at Sky Camp. Our Igloo Home in the Andes
What a wonderful sight! Sky Camp sits at approximately 3,900 metres, surrounded by the magnificent mountains of the Peruvian Andes.
We had made it!
Staff allocated our igloos, and we were delighted to find our duffel bags waiting. The little igloos looked rather futuristic, with curved glass roofs and tiny entrance doors. Protective covers kept the accommodation from becoming unbearably hot in the sunshine. Naturally, we couldn’t wait to investigate our home for the night. Each igloo contained proper beds, and the transparent roof promised extraordinary views of the night sky. Electricity was available between approximately 6pm and 9pm, giving everyone an opportunity to recharge cameras and phones.
But first, there was food!
Incredible Food in the Middle of the Mountains
Our driver had also transported a cook, who somehow produced enormous quantities of delicious food. We gathered in the dining hall for refreshments before lunch. And what a lunch!
There seemed to be enough food for ten people, despite there being only four trekkers in our little group. The meals were varied, beautifully presented and absolutely delicious. The kitchen also catered for Kara’s gluten intolerance.
Throughout our stay, every meal felt like a feast. After lunch, we enjoyed a well-earned siesta. We needed it, because our next adventure would take us even higher.
Climbing to Humantay Lake at 4,200 Metres
At around 2pm, Saul appeared. It was time to climb to Humantay Lake. The lake sits approximately 4,200 metres above sea level, beneath the magnificent Humantay mountain.
Its glacial waters shimmer between turquoise, blue and green, depending on the light.
The name Humantay is commonly translated from Quechua as “Head of the Gods”. It certainly seemed an appropriate name for such a spectacular place. Saul also spoke about the shrinking glaciers and the consequences for local communities. In 50 years it is expected their will be no more glacier!
He wondered what would happen when future generations could no longer depend on this precious ice. It was a sobering thought.
The Hot, Steep Climb to Humantay Lake
We packed lightly and began our ascent. Some visitors hired horses to help with the climb. However, we noticed all the riders without helmets and some horses with very basic reins or none.
That didn’t particularly appeal to us. Instead, we started walking, passing horses grazing on the lower slopes. There were hundreds of people tackling the mountain that afternoon.
And it was hot. Extremely hot! We were climbing during the hottest part of the day, with very little shade. Factor 50 suncream was essential. Cory had a wonderfully effective technique. Rather than marching directly uphill, he took tiny steps and zigzagged across the path. It made the climb feel much more manageable. It also helped protect our knees.
We took our first proper rest in a little patch of shade, approximately one-third of the way up. After fifteen minutes, we continued towards a small shed farther up the mountain, half way mark. Hilariously it is a shed selling drinks to the trekking tourists! There, we found a boulder, sat down and admired the extraordinary views.
Then it was time to start climbing again. Slowly. Very slowly! Younger walkers passed us while others were already making their way downhill. But we kept going.
Finally Reaching Humantay Lake
After approximately one hour and fifteen minutes, we reached the lake.
And wow!
There it was, glistening beneath the mountains. The water appeared to change colour before our eyes. Sometimes turquoise, sometimes blue, sometimes an extraordinary shade of green.
There were at least a hundred other visitors enjoying the same spectacular sight. I was absolutely delighted. Earlier, I genuinely doubted whether my lungs would allow me to reach this altitude. Yet here I was, standing beside one of Peru’s most beautiful glacial lakes. We drank water, rested, recovered and took plenty of photographs.
Then Cory and I decided to climb a little higher. We followed the ridge to the right of the lake for an even better view. Strange squeaking noises came from the rocks around us. We listened carefully but never spotted the mysterious little creatures making them. After more photographs, we returned to Saul, Lucy and Kara. We spent approximately half an hour enjoying the lake before beginning our descent. Going downhill was considerably quicker.
However, the loose gravel required care. We continued zigzagging, taking small steps to protect our knees and avoid slipping. Eventually, we reached Sky Camp. We had all made it! And it was worth every exhausting step.
Dinner, Stars and Hot Water Bottles at Sky Camp
After a little rest, we gathered for dinner at around 6pm. Once again, our cook produced an enormous feast. I couldn’t help wondering what happened to all the leftover food. Saul explained that the cooks and staff ate after the trekkers. Anything remaining could then go to the local village.
What a lovely arrangement.
With our tummies bursting, we eventually headed towards our igloos.
The camp had clean shared toilets and washing facilities. There were a few important things to remember. You collected toilet paper outside the cubicle, so you needed to judge how much to take. Used paper went into the wastebasket, never down the toilet. There were sinks for washing your hands and face, although the water wasn’t safe to drink. Paper towels were also provided.
Low-level lighting illuminated the paths between the facilities and our accommodation. You will still need your headtorch!
And now came the moment we had been waiting for.
Sleeping Beneath the Stars in the Andes
The protective covers had been removed from our igloos. Above us, the sky was beautifully clear. Thousands of stars glittered overhead. We climbed through our tiny doorway and settled into bed beneath the glass roof.
It was magical.
We tried photographing the stars, but our iPhone cameras couldn’t capture the extraordinary beauty. As we lay there, we could even see distant lightning illuminating the sky. What an experience!
Saul brought us extra blankets, and we already had heavy-duty sleeping bags included in our package. Unfortunately, the promised sleeping bag liners hadn’t materialised. Our wonderful cook also surprised us with hot water bottles. Cory received a Scottish terrier design. Mine had a unicorn! Perfect for two Scots sleeping high in the Peruvian Andes.
I wrapped myself in layers, climbed into my sleeping bag and drifted off quite happily. Unfortunately, my peaceful night didn’t last. At approximately 1.30am, the altitude headache returned. My head throbbed, and I struggled to sleep for the rest of the night. Not ideal preparation for another mountain adventure.
Day Two: Would I Make It to Salkantay Pass?
At 4am, Saul woke us with coffee. Now that’s service! Today, the planned route would take us to Salkantay Pass, approximately 4,630 metres above sea level. That is an astonishing 15,190 feet. Saul had explained the route over dinner the previous evening.
I already had doubts about whether I could manage the climb. The altitude headache certainly hadn’t improved my confidence. There was an option to hire a horse for the ascent. However, riders had to start from Sky Camp and remain on horseback for the climb. Again, the lack of helmets and proper reins concerned me. So we discussed our options over another enormous breakfast.
Cory aimed to reach the pass. I decided to accompany him and Saul for as long as possible. If it became too difficult, I would turn around. Lucy and Kara also decided against attempting the full ascent. Instead, they planned to enjoy the mountain scenery, take photographs and explore at their own pace.
It was a sensible arrangement.
Everyone could enjoy the mountains in their own way.
Knowing When to Turn Back
We set off at approximately 6am. At first, we joined a steady stream of trekkers heading towards Salkantay Pass. Many were continuing all the way to Machu Picchu. The pace was slow, but I quickly realised I couldn’t comfortably keep up. After approximately thirty minutes, I made my decision. I would turn around.
Cory and Saul continued towards the pass. Was I disappointed? Of course, a little. But I knew my limits, and I had already achieved something extraordinary the previous afternoon. Besides, I had another idea. And that idea would turn into one of my favourite experiences in Peru. More about that shortly!
Cory’s Adventure to Salkantay Pass
While I headed back towards Sky Camp, Cory continued climbing with Saul. The route initially followed a mountain track past several lodges. There were three main stages of ascent. The first involved a steady climb followed by a gentler section.
The second became rockier and more rugged. And this was where they spotted something wonderful. A chinchilla sitting on a rock!
Eventually, they reached the moraine beneath the mountains. A sneaky left turn took them away from the view of Sky Camp. They crossed a small grassy basin for approximately 800 metres before tackling the final ascent. The last climb followed a narrow, rugged channel. Another left turn led towards loose, scree-like terrain and the broad mountain pass. And finally, Cory made it!
Standing at 4,630 Metres
The summit was cold, windy and misty. Out came the thermal layers and warm hats. There was a wooden sign for photographs and a huge rock that provided another iconic photo opportunity. After all that climbing, photographs were essential!
Cory spent approximately half an hour at the pass, enjoying his achievement. The ascent had taken around two and a half hours.
There was also another important lesson on the mountain. Donkeys carrying supplies don’t stop for tourists! When they approach, step aside carefully. Always choose the safer inside edge of the path, away from any steep drop. On the return journey, Cory and Saul followed a slightly different route along the valley’s right-hand side. They were rewarded with grazing alpacas and torrent ducks beside the river. The descent took approximately two hours.
What an achievement! Cory had conquered Salkantay Pass.
Meanwhile, I Had My Own Mountain Adventure
After returning to Sky Camp, I found Lucy and Kara. I told them I fancied walking a little way back towards Humantay Lake. I wanted to stretch my legs, enjoy the scenery and take some photographs. The girls had their own plans, and we agreed to meet later. But my little morning walk turned into something rather unexpected. I ended up climbing the Humantay Lake route again. This time, completely alone.
And because I set off before 7am, I experienced something very different from the previous afternoon. No crowds. No endless procession of hikers. Just me, the mountains and the beautiful sounds of birdsong.
It was extraordinary.
I’ll tell the full story of my solo Humantay adventure in another blog.
Meanwhile, Lucy and Kara enjoyed a wonderful morning exploring the lower trails. They encountered horses and donkeys, admired the mountain scenery and captured some spectacular photographs. Kara was an incredibly talented photographer. She kindly shared some of her wonderful images with us afterwards.
By approximately 11am to 11.30am, we were all reunited at Sky Camp. Cory had conquered the pass. I had enjoyed an unforgettable solo adventure. And Lucy and Kara had created their own wonderful mountain memories. Everyone was absolutely delighted.
A Final Feast and Our Salkantay Trek Certificates
We gathered in the dining hall for one final delicious meal. And once again, there was more food than we could possibly eat. Then Saul presented us with certificates commemorating our trek.
I love a certificate!
It was such a lovely finishing touch.
After lunch, we collected our belongings and walked approximately thirty minutes to the waiting minibuses. Our extraordinary two-day adventure in the Andes had come to an end. We were tired, happy and full of wonderful memories.
Was the Two-Day Salkantay Trek Worth It?
Absolutely! We experienced spectacular mountain scenery, fascinating Inca engineering and one of Peru’s most beautiful glacial lakes. We slept beneath the stars in extraordinary accommodation and enjoyed delicious meals throughout our adventure.
Our guide, Saul, was knowledgeable, encouraging and wonderfully friendly. And we couldn’t have wished for better trekking companions than Lucy and Kara. However, the altitude deserves enormous respect. Even after three days in Cusco, I struggled with headaches and exhaustion.
The trek also involved steep climbs, strong sunshine, cold mountain conditions and considerable physical effort. You don’t need to race to the summit to enjoy this extraordinary landscape.
Sometimes, changing your plans leads to an equally wonderful adventure.
Cory reached Salkantay Pass. I climbed to Humantay Lake twice. And together, we enjoyed two unforgettable days in the Peruvian Andes.
Would we recommend it? Without hesitation. Just take your time, respect the altitude and remember to look up at the stars. Our trek was organised by Salkantay Trekking, and we paid for the experience ourselves. We booked directly with Salkantay Trekking and paid US$588 in total for the two of us in November 2026.
We chose Salkantay Trekking because they offered excellent value for money, with everything included in the price: sleeping bags, trekking poles, delicious meals, snacks, an experienced guide, cook, driver, hotel pick-up and even a night in their spectacular glass-roofed igloos at Sky Camp. Unlike some other operators, there were no hidden extras or unexpected charges, making it much easier to budget for our adventure.
Next adventure: My solo sunrise hike towards Humantay Lake. Sometimes the best experiences happen when you change your plans.
Two-Day Salkantay Trek: The Best and Hardest Moments
The best moments of our two-day Salkantay Trek were reaching the stunning Humantay Lake, sleeping beneath the stars at Sky Camp and sharing the adventure with wonderful companions. Cory’s achievement at Salkantay Pass and my unexpected solo hike were unforgettable highlights. The hardest moments were battling the heat, steep climbs and high altitude. My pounding altitude headache made the second night particularly difficult. But despite the challenges, we both came away with extraordinary memories of our adventure in the Peruvian Andes.
What to Pack for the Two-Day Salkantay Trek
Packing for the Salkantay Trek means preparing for intense sunshine, freezing mountain temperatures and unexpected rain. We experienced scorching heat during the day and cold conditions at night. Lightweight, quick-drying clothing and plenty of layers are essential.
Here’s what we recommend packing:
- Passport, essential for identification and booking checks.
- Comfortable, well-worn hiking boots or shoes with good grip.
- Lightweight, quick-drying hiking trousers and tops.
- Thermal base layers for cold mornings and evenings.
- Warm fleece and insulated jacket.
- Waterproof jacket and trousers.
- Warm hat, gloves and thick socks.
- Sunhat or baseball cap.
- Sunglasses with good UV protection.
- Factor 50 suncream and SPF lip balm.
- Insect repellent.
- Refillable water bottles with sufficient drinking water.
- Personal medication and basic first-aid supplies.
- Snacks for extra energy.
- Head torch for moving around camp after dark.
- Phone, camera and power bank.
- Toiletries, a small towel and spare underwear.
- Dry socks and comfortable sleeping clothes.
- Cash in Peruvian soles for tips for the guide, driver and cook.
What Did Salkantay Trekking Provide?
One advantage of booking with Salkantay Trekking was the amount of equipment they supplied. We didn’t need to carry everything ourselves.
Our package included:
- A duffel bag for transporting overnight belongings to Sky Camp.
- Trekking poles for the duration of the trek.
- Waterproof covers for our daypacks.
- Snack bags for the hike.
- Heavy-duty sleeping bags.
- Accommodation in the glass-roofed Sky Camp igloos.
- Extra blankets and wonderfully cosy hot water bottles.
- Delicious meals throughout our adventure.
- An experienced mountain guide, cook and transport.
Sleeping bag liners were also promised, although ours never appeared.
We carried our own daypacks containing water, snacks, waterproofs and everything needed during the walks. Our duffel bags travelled separately to Sky Camp.
Our biggest packing tip? Don’t underestimate the temperature changes. We needed strong sun protection during the afternoon climbs and warm clothing for the mountains. Keeping your daypack light also makes a difference at elevations exceeding 4,000 metres.
P.S. Tarantula Wildlife Rescue
We even had an unexpected wildlife rescue along the way! We spotted a tarantula struggling in the water of the ancient Inca aqueduct. Naturally, we couldn’t just leave it there, so another guide helped the hairy little creature out of the water and back to safety. Not quite the wildlife encounter we expected high in the Peruvian Andes! A true Wee Wild Adventure!
P.P.S thank you to Kara and Lucy
A special thank you to our wonderful trekking companion, Kara, for generously sharing some of her beautiful photographs with us. She’s a talented photographer, and we’re delighted to include her images alongside our own memories of this unforgettable adventure
