Far to the north of Orkney Mainland, past green fields and storm-battered headlands, lies a quiet, remarkable island. Just over four miles long and barely a mile across, Papa Westray — or Papay, as it’s known to locals — might be small in size, but it is rich in history, wildlife, and a sense of belonging that is rare even in Scotland’s remote islands.
Lying on the same latitude as Stavanger in Norway, Papay sits close to the top of the Orkney archipelago. It’s a place of soft light, wide horizons, and deep continuity. Travel writer Bill Bryson once named it his favourite place in all of Britain, and it’s not hard to see why. The island offers big skies, fine walking, dramatic cliffs, beautiful beaches, a thriving community, and an archaeological site older than the Pyramids. All this with fewer than 100 residents and no need to rush.
Getting to Papa Westray
There are two ways to reach Papay — both scenic and a little adventurous. Most visitors take the Loganair flight from Kirkwall, which includes the world’s shortest scheduled flight: a two-minute hop from neighbouring Westray to Papay. The entire journey takes around 15–20 minutes and offers aerial views of skerries, sea stacks, and patchwork fields.
Alternatively, you can arrive by sea via the Orkney Ferries service, which sails from Kirkwall via several North Isles and takes several hours. The boat is slower but offers a more immersive journey through the Orkney seascape — past puffins, terns, and perhaps even a seal or porpoise.
Both flight and ferry require a flexible attitude to weather. Wind and sea state can affect schedules, particularly in winter, but the experience of getting there is all part of the charm.
Getting to Papa Westray comes with a unique claim to fame: the shortest scheduled flight in the world. Operated by Loganair between Westray and Papa Westray, the journey lasts as little as 80 seconds, depending on the wind. It’s a quirky and unforgettable way to arrive, offering a sweeping view of sea, sky, and islets before touching down on Papay’s tidy airstrip. Pilots and passengers often joke that it takes longer to buckle your seatbelt than to complete the flight. For many, it’s not just a practical connection — it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
A Landscape of Cliffs, Bays, and Pasture
Though small, Papay’s landscape is varied and quietly beautiful. At the north end, the cliffs are steep and dramatic, carved by centuries of Atlantic storms and home to nesting fulmars, puffins, and great skuas. Below them, narrow geos and sea caves echo with waves and bird cries.
Towards the centre of the island, the land softens into rolling croft fields and grassland, stitched with stone walls and dotted with sheep. Long sandy beaches curve around shallow bays on the east coast, offering places to walk, watch waders, or just sit in the salt breeze.
You’re never far from the sound of the sea or the flight of a bird. Even on calm days, the island feels alive — shaped by wind, wave, and human hands that have worked this land for thousands of years.
People and Place: A Thriving Small Community
With a population of around 70 people, Papa Westray is one of Orkney’s smaller inhabited islands — but it punches well above its weight when it comes to community spirit. In recent years, the island has welcomed new residents from across Scotland and beyond, people drawn by the quality of life, the beauty of the place, and the chance to be part of something meaningful.
The community has made real efforts to be sustainable and inclusive. There’s a school, a shop, a heritage centre, a community co-operative, and regular cultural events, including film nights and live music. Islanders run tourism, conservation, farming, and small enterprises with creativity and care.
Visitors are made genuinely welcome. Whether you’re coming to see the puffins, walk the beaches, or explore the archaeology, you’ll find conversations are easy, help is offered freely, and the slower pace of life opens up unexpected encounters.
The Knap of Howar: Europe’s Oldest House
Perhaps Papay’s most remarkable treasure is also one of the quietest. Down a grassy path near the west coast, behind a low fence, lies a pair of stone dwellings known as the Knap of Howar. At first glance, they resemble Iron Age buildings like Skara Brae. But the truth is even more astonishing.
These are the oldest known standing houses in north-western Europe, occupied by Neolithic farmers over 6,000 years ago. That’s older than Stonehenge or the Pyramids. Their thick dry-stone walls, low doorways, and flagstone furniture remain intact — a testament to ancient craftsmanship and the protection of sea wind and turf.
Standing inside the main chamber, with the Atlantic just beyond the shore, you can feel the passage of time in the stones. You are where people once ground grain, repaired nets, and tended fires in a world without iron, without wheels, but not without meaning.
Birds and the North Hill Nature Reserve
Wildlife lovers flock to Papay for its North Hill Nature Reserve, managed by Scottish Natural Heritage. This raised maritime heath is one of the best-preserved examples of its kind and supports a rich mix of flora and nesting birds.
In spring and early summer, the reserve comes alive with Arctic terns, puffins, lapwings, redshanks, and great skuas. The puffins nest in burrows along the cliff edge, often just feet from visitors, allowing close-up photography and hours of gentle observation. The skuas, as ever, are more confrontational — their dramatic swoops and calls a reminder that this is their territory.
Rare plants also thrive here, including moonwort, butterwort, and sea pink. With wide views, wildflowers, and birds on all sides, North Hill is a place to walk slowly, breathe deeply, and notice everything.
One of Papay’s newest and most poignant additions is the Great Auk Memorial Sculpture, unveiled in 2021. Standing on the west side of the island near the North Hill reserve, the bronze sculpture by artist Rinchen-Tashi commemorates the extinction of the Great Auk, a flightless seabird once common across the North Atlantic. The last British great auk was believed to have been killed on Papa Westray in the mid-1800s, a sobering reminder of how even the most abundant species can disappear. The sculpture captures the bird’s form in quiet dignity, facing the sea it once ruled. It has become both a striking landmark and a space for reflection on our relationship with the natural world.
Another stop well worth your time is the Papa Westray Farm Heritage Centre, housed in a traditional stone steading not far from the airstrip. This small but beautifully curated museum showcases tools, furniture, and everyday objects from Papay’s farming past — from hand-ploughs and corn-drying kilns to photographs of island life across the 19th and 20th centuries. It tells the story of crofting, self-reliance, and adaptation in a landscape shaped by wind and sea. Entry is often free or donation-based, and visitors can explore at their own pace or join a guided talk with one of the island’s heritage volunteers.
The Church of St Boniface
Another quiet gem is the church of St Boniface, an ancient stone kirk built on the site of an early Christian mission station. Though now roofless, the church still has a presence — its narrow windows and weathered stones watching over the graveyard and bay.
St Boniface was a centre of worship from Norse times through to the Reformation, and possibly earlier. Archaeological finds suggest that Papay was an important religious site long before the modern parish was created. Today, the church remains a peaceful place to reflect, to imagine, and to feel the pull of centuries.
Walking, Beachcombing and Birding
For walkers, Papa Westray offers gentle but rewarding routes. A circuit of the island can be done in a day, with time to linger at beaches, sea inlets, and archaeological sites. Many visitors simply follow their feet — a morning walk that turns into an afternoon exploration, with seabirds wheeling above and the sound of surf in the distance.
Beachcombing is especially good after storms, with shells, sea-glass, and driftwood lining the shore. Otters are occasionally seen around the rocky bays, and seals haul out on the outer reefs.
Birdwatchers will want to bring binoculars. Migration periods (spring and autumn) can bring unexpected species, and rarities have been recorded from Scandinavia, North America, and the Arctic. The island’s airstrip has even been known to host passing waders and songbirds, resting on their way to who knows where.
Staying on Papay
Accommodation on Papa Westray includes guesthouses, self-catering cottages, and hostel-style lodging at the Papay Hostel, which is also used by researchers and volunteers. Many visitors stay at the Papa Westray Hostel and Heritage Centre, where rooms are simple but comfortable, and the welcome is warm.
There’s also a community café and shop, and seasonal tours of local sites run by Papay guides. Booking ahead is essential, especially in summer, but prices are fair and the experience is deeply memorable.
Why Visit?
Papa Westray is a place where you can breathe. Where you can stand in a 6,000-year-old house in the morning, watch puffins in the afternoon, and share a drink with islanders in the evening. It is a place where community, history, and nature are still closely linked — not as museum pieces, but as part of everyday life.
It’s a haven for slow travellers, curious minds, birders, walkers, and those who want to know what it feels like when life and landscape still speak to one another. Whether for a weekend or a week, Papa Westray leaves an impression far larger than its size.