When Plan A Goes Wrong – Discover Cramond Island’s Hidden Secrets on Foot
Sometimes the best adventures are the ones you never planned.
Our original weekend had been all about paddling the impressive aqueduct beside the Falkirk Wheel (Avon Viaduct). Unfortunately, when we unpacked the new roof rack for my Berlingo Van the evening before we were due to leave, we discovered they were the wrong size. That was the end of Plan A.
Rather than abandon the weekend altogether, we came up with Plan B. After I’d had my hair done, we headed for Cramond. Walking the famous tidal causeway to Cramond Island had been on my list for years, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity.
A Wild Evening on the Causeway
It turned out to be one of those classic Scottish summer evenings. The wind was wild, but the skies were dry and bright. Perfect walking weather.
What we didn’t expect was the sheer number of people.
There was a constant stream of walkers heading in both directions. Families, couples, photographers and dog walkers mixed with something rather more unusual. Dozens of people were pushing trolleys piled high with camping equipment, food and, judging by some of the contents, plenty of drink.
It was a Friday evening, after all.
Were they heading for a peaceful night under the stars or a lively gathering? We never found out, but we estimated there were around fifty people planning to stay overnight on the island.
Don’t Ignore the Tide Times
Before leaving home we’d watched one of the RNLI’s videos about Cramond Island. Every year people become stranded after misjudging the tides, and some require rescue when the sea quickly cuts off the causeway.
RNLI Tide Times for Cramond Island.
It’s a sobering reminder that this isn’t simply a pleasant stroll.
We checked the RNLI tide tables before setting off and made sure we had plenty of time to enjoy the island before beginning the walk back.
Timing really is everything here.
Walking Across to Cramond Island
The crossing itself is about a mile long (20 minutes at average pace) and follows the concrete causeway stretching across the Firth of Forth.
Most of the surface is straightforward, although there were a few slippery patches where seawater had left behind green algae. Good footwear certainly helps.
Lining one side of the causeway are the famous concrete pylons, built during the Second World War as part of the defences of the Firth of Forth. Although often called anti-submarine barriers, they were actually designed to block fast enemy surface craft approaching the vital naval anchorage and Rosyth Dockyard. Today they’re one of Cramond Island’s most recognisable landmarks.
A Small Island with Thousands of Years of History
Although Cramond Island is small, it has a surprisingly rich history.
Archaeologists have discovered a prehistoric burial cist on the island (Early Christian period, roughly AD 400–900), showing that people were connected with this place thousands of years ago. Later, the island was farmed, with sheep grazing here for generations, and the remains of the old farmhouse can still be found beneath the ivy.
The island also has a freshwater well, making it possible for people to stay here for longer periods despite being surrounded by the sea at high tide.
In more recent times, Cramond Island became an unusual holiday destination. One Edinburgh family rented the entire island every summer, escaping city life for their own private island retreat. Then, during the Second World War, it took on a very different role as part of the coastal defences protecting the Firth of Forth.
The Island That Helped Defend Scotland
During the Second World War, Cramond Island became a military outpost, with soldiers stationed here around the clock to help defend the Firth of Forth. Gun emplacements, searchlight positions, engine houses and military buildings transformed what had once been a peaceful farming island into an important part of Scotland’s coastal defences.
One of my favourite stories dates from 1941, when the island’s defences were tested during a military exercise. A Home Guard unit – the real-life “Dad’s Army” – carried out a surprise mock attack. Sergeant Exley secretly reached the island the day before and spent the next 24 hours observing the soldiers, noting where sentries were posted and where the weak spots lay.
When the exercise began, the attackers caught the defenders completely off guard. According to local accounts, some of the soldiers were even found asleep at their posts. Thankfully it was only an exercise, but it proved just how vulnerable the island’s defences could be if vigilance slipped.
Wildlife Along the Shore
The exposed rocky shore were full of life.
Oystercatchers called constantly across the shoreline while eider ducks drifted offshore. Swifts raced overhead, gulls searched for scraps and we spent several minutes watching clever crows and jackdaws making the most of low tide as they searched the exposed shore for food.
It’s a reminder that the changing tide isn’t just important for people. It’s part of a daily cycle that countless birds depend upon.
A Different Walking Culture
One thing surprised us more than anything else.
Coming from the Highlands, we’re used to exchanging a smile or saying hello to almost everyone we meet on a walk.
This evening was rather different.
Despite passing hundreds of people, very few acknowledged us. It wasn’t unpleasant, just noticeably different from what we’re used to, and it made us appreciate the friendly atmosphere we so often enjoy when walking further north.
Looking After This Special Place
Sadly, not everyone had treated the island with the respect it deserves.
Many of the old wartime buildings were covered in graffiti (I love graffiti as an artist but some of it was, ill judge in my opinion – not all art is for all though!) and we found discarded fishing line complete with three hooks and a heavy weight. Left where it was, it could easily have injured wildlife or another visitor, so we packed it out with us.
As a small bonus, we also found an abandoned drink can along the way. Perhaps it had fallen from one of the many camping trolleys making their way across the causeway.
Leave No Trace only works if everyone does their part.
Tips for Visiting Cramond Island
If you’re planning your own visit, a little preparation goes a long way.
Always check the official tide times before setting off.
Give yourself plenty of time to return before the causeway begins to flood.
Wear sturdy footwear with good grip, especially after wet weather.
And if there’s any doubt about the tide, don’t risk it. The island isn’t going anywhere.
Sometimes Plan B Is Better Than Plan A
Our weekend hadn’t gone anything like we’d expected.
Instead of paddling beside the Falkirk Wheel, we found ourselves walking across the sea to a tiny island rich in history, wildlife and wartime defences.
A wild, windy evening in July, an unexpected adventure and another reminder that sometimes the best stories begin when your original plans fall apart.
Facilities at Cramond
Before setting off across the causeway, you’ll find everything you need on the mainland.
- Free parking at Cramond Foreshore.
- Public toilets close to the start of the causeway.
- Café nearby for drinks and snacks.
- Benches overlooking the Firth of Forth.
- Information boards
On busy weekends and sunny evenings, the car park can fill quickly, so it’s worth arriving a little earlier than planned.
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