Simmer Dim on Mousa Island, Shetland a Kayak Adventure
Wet weather won’t deter us from embarking on an adventure to Mousa Island in the Shetland Isles. Despite the rain and a choppy crossing, we kayak over to the uninhabited island to wild camp and experience the natural and historical wonders of this remote location.
A Rainy Start and a Choppy Crossing
The mid summers day begins with grey skies and a persistent drizzle, but our spirits remain high. Launching our kayaks from the Shetland mainland. Sandsayre is where The Mousa Boat departs and we the slip way inhabited by seals.
We paddle through the choppy waters towards Mousa Island. The crossing is challenging (for me, Mandy), with waves splashing over the sides. Cory attaches me to a tow rope to help me make the crossing. We are wet through by the time we reach the shore and thrilled. We haul our gear up the beach and find a suitable spot to camp behind a stone dyke, a few hundred metres from the RSPB bothy.
Setting Up Camp and Exploring Mousa Broch
After setting up our tent , we don’t even change into dry clothes. We waste no time heading straight to the lichen-clad Mousa Broch. This ancient structure, the best-preserved broch in the world, has long been on our bucket list. Standing before its towering walls, we are in awe of its historical significance and well-preserved state.
The storm petrels, our nocturnal companions, are out at sea fishing. Those tending the nests quietly resting within the broch’s stone walls.
Afternoon Adventures and Wildlife Encounters
Returning to our tent, we enjoy a leisurely lunch before setting off to explore more of the island.
The weather clears slightly, revealing patches of blue sky. We wander around the old laird’s house and inspect the RSPB listening devices scattered across the island. In the bay, we spot seals lazily basking on the rocks and keep a respectful distance from the nesting Arctic Terns, their sharp calls echoing in the still air.
The Magic of Simmer Dim
As midsummer night approaches, we settle on a bench to watch the sun dip towards the horizon. The Shetland sky is a breathtaking mix of clear blue and warm pink hues. Unlike typical sunsets, the sun doesn’t fully disappear, lingering just above the horizon—a phenomenon known as Simmer Dim.
The Mousa Boat arrives, bringing a group of tourists eager to witness the storm petrels’ return.
The Nightly Spectacle of Storm Petrels
By 11:30 PM, the sky darkens, and we join the group walking towards the Broch, ready for the wildlife spectacle. Around a quarter past midnight, the first storm petrels start returning to their nests.
The air comes alive with the birds’ swooping and murmuring, their calls filling the night. The broch’s walls and nearby dykes are teeming with these secretive birds, creating a magical atmosphere that feels like a dream.
Changing Weather and a Change of Plans
As the night progresses, we notice the weather shifting. Although it’s not raining, a wild front with strong winds is moving in.
After 45 minutes of watching the storm petrels, we find the skipper of The Mousa Boat and inquire about hitching a lift back to the mainland.
We have enough supplies to stay longer, but our ferry back to Aberdeen is scheduled for that evening (because it is now tomorrow). We can’t to risk missing the ferry in summer as it is always fully booked for weeks in advance. It is now or never!
A Saintly Skipper and a Safe Return
The skipper (and son), understanding our situation, kindly agrees to transport us. Along with all our kit and the two kayaks, back to the mainland in the morning after dropping off a group of tourists. Grateful for his generosity, we return to our tent for a few hours of rest.
Early in the morning, true to his word, the skipper helps us safely back to the Shetland mainland.
Secrets of Simmer Dim on Mousa Island
We leave Mousa Island with unforgettable memories and a deep appreciation for its natural beauty and historical treasures.
This adventure on Mousa Island, amidst the unique Simmer Dim light and the nightly return of the storm petrels, is an experience we will cherish forever.
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