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A Useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey

Our Second Adventure Navigating the Life Giving Artery of Moray, the River Spey

Map Paddle The Spey

Introduction

The River Spey, flowing through the stunning landscapes of Scotland, offers a unique canoeing experience for adventurers of all levels. Whether you’re seeking a tranquil paddle or an exhilarating ride through rapids, the River Spey has something to offer. This guide provides essential information to help you prepare for a memorable journey down one of Scotland’s most picturesque rivers.

Canoe on the River Spey with amazing decidious forest A Useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey

Planning Your Trip

  • Best Time to Go: The ideal time for canoeing the River Spey is between April and September. During these months, the weather is more favourable, and water levels are optimal.
  • Duration: A full trip down the River Spey typically takes 3- 4-5 days, covering approximately 100 km from Loch Insh to Spey Bay. Our first trip down the Spey we started at Newtonmore (Friday to Sunday), this second trip we start at Loch Insch (again Friday to Sunday).
  • Permits: No permits are required for canoeing the River Spey. Always respect private land and follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. Your biggest hazard is likely to be anglers.

Our first trip down the Spey we had encoutered some grumpy anglers, this trip they were all friendly!

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Equipment and Gear

  • Canoe/Kayak: A robust, stable canoe or kayak suitable for both calm waters and mild rapids.
  • Safety Gear: Life Preservers, tow rope, bucket to bale, and a first aid kit are essential.
  • Camping Gear: Tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and camping stove for overnight stays. We take enough water and food for our 3 days of camping. We are completely self sufficient. What is great about a canoe is that you can pack so much in! Just make sure you tie it into your canoe incase your vessel takes a swim! We also take a fully charged powerbank to charge our mobile phone and Go-Pro.
  • Clothing: Quick-drying, warm layered clothing; waterproof jackets; and sturdy footwear. For footwear I wear Lomo wet shoes in the canoe and trainers in the camp. Watch the video below for what I packed and it wasn’t enough! I wore all my clothes and Cory’s clothes too!
  • Navigation: You might benefit from maps, a compass, and a GPS device to stay on track. We actually used a book the first time we canoe the Spey (Bridges are a great place to work out where you are on the river), this time we used our iPhones to find out how far we had travelled and which village we might be close to.

Key Sections of the River Spey (all distances are approximate)

  1. Loch Insh (Watersports Centre or Alvie Church are popular put-ins) to Aviemore (20 km):
    • Description: Gentle currents and stunning scenery.
    • Highlights: Wildlife sightings and beautiful views of the snow capped Cairngorms.
  2. Aviemore to Grantown-on-Spey (25 km):
    • Description: Mix of calm stretches and mild rapids.
    • Highlights: River pools perfect for a refreshing swim (not in April unless you are crazy!).
  3. Grantown-on-Spey to Aberlour (30 km):
    • Description: Rapids become more frequent and challenging.
    • Highlights: The historic town of Aberlour (check our the Community Old Station Tea Room a short walk from the river) and Speyside distilleries.
  4. Aberlour to Spey Bay (25 km):
    • Description: The river widens, and the pace slows as you approach the sea.
    • Highlights: Diverse birdlife and the serene Spey Bay.
Victoria Bridge in Aberlour A useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey

Victoria Bridge, Aberlour

Environmental Considerations

Check Weather Conditions: Always check the weather forecast before setting out. Avoid canoeing in extreme weather conditions.

Leave No Trace: Pack out all rubbish and minimise your environmental impact.

Respect Wildlife and other River Users: Observe animals from a distance and avoid disturbing their habitats.

Protect the Waterway: Avoid polluting the river and use biodegradable products where possible.

Wildlife whilst Paddling the River Spey

On the River Spey we see:

  • Scores of Heron
  • Sand Martins
  • Swallows
  • Cuckoo
  • Osprey
  • Kingfisher
  • Dippers
  • Otter
  • Grey Wagtail
  • Red Deer
  • Goosander
  • Oystercatcher
  • Salmon leaping longer than my arm!
The Moray Firth at Spey Bay

Moray Firth

Paddling the Spey Day 1 of our adventure in photographs
Paddling the Spey Day 2 of our adventure in photographs
Paddling the Spey Day 3 of our adventure in photographs

Our Second Adventure Navigating the Life Giving Artery of Moray, the River Spey

Embarking on a three-day canoeing adventure down Scotland’s majestic River Spey, we navigate rapids, face brisk winds, and soak in the awe-inspiring scenery, get soaked, and create memories that will last a lifetime.

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Setting the Stage: Preparing for the Journey

Planning a successful trip requires meticulous organisation.

We contact Loch Insh Paddle Sports about leaving our canoe, and Cory efficiently managed the logistics: dropping off the canoe, driving to Spey Bay, cycling to Elgin, and catching the train back to Nairn. This careful preparation ensured our canoe and van are perfectly positioned for the journey ahead. We then catch a train and bus to Aviemore, and walk to Loch Insh with our gear.

After a delicous second breakfast at the centre, it was time to hit the water.

Day 1: A Crisp Beginning and Stunning Scenery

It is a gorgeous, cold, crisp day and the wind occasionally challenges our paddling skills. Having not been on a trip for a while, our muscle memory is put to the test. I, Mandy, take the front while Cory expertly steers from the back.

The Cairngorms, dusted with snow, provided a stunning backdrop against the blue skies and green trees. We respectfully navigate past anglers and admire the high-end fishing huts with smoke curling from their chimneys. Despite the wind, the river’s gentle rapids and full flow made for a pleasant start.

Our first night of wild camping was on a grassy bank between Boat of Garten and Nethy Bridge, basking in the evening sun. I underestimate the cold and end up wearing all of Cory’s clothes. After a delicious dinner of soup and tuna pasta, we settle in for an early night.

River Spey The Washing Machine

Day 2: Cold, Dreich, and Challenging Rapids

The second day greets us with cold, dreich weather and more challenging rapids.

The infamous ‘Washing Machine’ rapids near Ballindalloch drenches me, necessitating the first of two canoe-emptying stops. Despite the chill and exertion, the river’s beauty remains captivating. Running low on energy, we stop at Aberlour, where the Aberlour Community Tea Room provided much-needed warmth, tea, cake, and facilities.

Rejuvenated, we continue our journey, choosing a remote pitch after Craigellachie for our second night. We are visited by a gamekeeper, who, after ensuring we were respectful campers, wished us a good night.

A useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey Wet Feet

Day 3: Short and Sweet to Spey Bay

After a night of rain, we don our wet gear and brake camp. Frequent stops for tea and snacks keep us going. Passing Fochabers, the river widens, presenting cliffs with swooping sand martins.

Navigating through debris and hazards, we finally hear the crashing waves at Spey Bay.

We conclude our journey near the Dolphin and Whale Watch Centre, where our van awaits, marking the end of an exhilarating three-day adventure.

  • Food Barrell to keep everything dry
  • Wearing all my clothes and Cory's clothes on the River Spey Adventure
  • Dolphin Centre Sign Spey Bay A Useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey
  • Sunshine at Camp on the River Spey inside the tent
  • A useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey time for a tea break
  • A useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey mandy and cory at Loch Insch
  • Canoe on the River Spey with amazing decidious forest A Useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey
  • Huge water Container for 3 days of canoe adventure
  • A useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey Snow on the Cairngorms
  • Beautiful Sunshine on the River Spey
  • Cooking utensils on the River Spey
  • A useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey Wet Feet
  • A useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey reflections on the River Spey
  • Victoria Bridge in Aberlour A useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey
  • River Spey The Washing Machine A Useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey
  • Knackered and camping on the River Spey A Useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey
  • Canoe packing ready for our River Spey Adventure

Reflections: Highlights and Takeaways

The landscape’s beauty, the river’s tranquility, diverse birdlife, and the sense of achievement were the trip’s highlights.

Counting bridges, snuggling up for warmth, and sleeping soundly after exhausting days added to the experience. Despite the challenges, the adventure reaffirmed our love for the River Spey, leaving us with cherished memories and a sense of accomplishment.

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A Useful Guide to Canoeing the River Spey

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