The Coolest Spot in Findhorn: A Surprise Beneath the Dunes
I’ve strolled past the Findhorn Ice House more times than I can count. On my way to the bay, the dunes, the harbour – always admiring the turf mound, always meaning to pop in one day. But this time, something made me stop. A sign outside cheerfully called out:
“Don’t miss the exciting underground ice house – it’s cool!”
That was it. Hooked by the humour, I stepped inside. What awaited me was an absolute delight. A warm welcome from the volunteer on duty – and then, down we went.
Quick Facts – Findhorn Ice House
- Location what three words – ///clocked.resides.prefect
- Location: Just behind the dunes near Findhorn Bay, Moray, Scotland
- Opening: Check out the website before you visit
- Built: After 1816, replacing an earlier shoreline structure
- Purpose: To store natural ice for preserving salmon for export
- Key Feature: Four large underground vaulted chambers beneath a turf mound
- Ice Source: Originally winter ice floes from the River Findhorn, gathered from the bay
- Insulation: Straw and sawdust layered between blocks; turf and thick stone walls
- Operated Until: 1987, when salmon fishing declined
- Restored: Designated an Ancient Monument in 1999; reopened to the public in 2003
- Entry: Free – run by Findhorn Village Heritage Trust (Please Leave a Donation)
- Top Tip: Bring a jumper – it really is naturally cool inside!
Bigger Than It Looks – and Lovingly Preserved
This is no ordinary ice house. I’ve explored others across Scotland, but none come close to this in scale or atmosphere. Tucked beneath the sand dune known locally as the Dustil, the structure is vast – with four vaulted chambers, turf-covered roofs, and incredibly thick stone walls designed to keep the cold locked in and the salmon fresh.
It was built after 1816, specifically for storing natural ice collected from Findhorn Bay, ready for the commercial salmon trade. Ice gathered in winter, from the beach, was carted over the dunes and tipped through roof chutes. Inside, it was packed in layers of straw and sawdust to prevent freezing into solid blocks.
An older icehouse – now vanished – once stood closer to the shore. But this one, the second, has stood the test of time, despite falling out of use in 1987, and it’s now carefully looked after by the Findhorn Village Heritage Trust.
From Ice Roads to Global Exports – The Dalrymple Discovery
The story of commercial ice use in Scotland starts with a world traveller. In 1786, Alexander Dalrymple, a Hydrographer to the East India Company, reported seeing fresh fish being transported inland across China in the height of summer – kept cold in snow-packed houses far from the coast. He shared this discovery with George Dempster, MP for Perth Burghs, who passed it on to Scottish fisheries on the Tay. From there, the idea quickly spread along the Moray coast.
Cold, it turns out, was a hot idea.
By the early 1800s, purpose-built icehouses appeared across the region – and even ice companies emerged, like the Northern Clear Ice Company in Elgin and the Moray Ice Co. in Lossiemouth, which supplied industrial quantities of man-made ice for export and fish processing when winters grew milder.
Ice Innovation Wasn’t New – Just Forgotten
The Romans had long understood the value of ice. They created elaborate chains of icehouses across Europe to keep oysters, game, and fruit cold on their journey to Rome. But in Britain, the first recorded icehouse didn’t appear until 1619, when one was built in Greenwich for King James VI & I. From there, ice storage became fashionable among the aristocracy and then gradually filtered down to more practical use – particularly on private estates.
A Salmon Story as Old as Time
But the story of fishing at Findhorn goes back even further – far further. Ancient fish traps, known locally as yairs, can still be spotted at low tide along the shore. These traps date back to at least the 12th century, and possibly earlier, with evidence of similar systems found in Ireland as far back as 1000 BC.
Findhorn’s rights to fish the Bay were once controlled by Kinloss Abbey, and the system of stakes and wattle fences used the incoming tide to corral salmon. These were later taken over by the town of Forres, and incredibly, salmon were still being caught commercially in these same yairs as late as 1842.
Things to Spot (Ice Spy, if you will)
- Massive red bricks strengthening the vaulted ceiling
- Roof chutes once used for tipping in the ice
- Flagstones and runnels to direct meltwater away
- The original half-sized door, now the Emergency Exit
- Listen to the story of the massive ‘salmon on a leash’
Cool, Quirky and Completely Unexpected
In short? The Findhorn Ice House is a treasure – one I’m glad I finally took the time to explore. Whether you’re into fishing history, architectural oddities, or simply looking for a surprising escape from the summer heat, this is well worth a stop.
It’s free, it’s fun, it’s… cool.
For more wee wild adventures in Scotland
The Clootie Well of Munlochy: Sacred Rags, Forest Paths, and Ancient Magic
Springtime Freedom on the Spey: A Folding Kayak’s Maiden Voyage